Is your deer meat tough, dry and
gamey-tasting? It shouldn't be. Check out this list of 12
deer-butchering sins to find out why your venison tastes bad -- and how
to make it better
I’m often amazed at the
people, deer hunters included, who tell me they just don’t like venison.
That statement is usually followed by a qualifier: it’s tough; it’s
gamey; it’s dry. And so on.
In warm weather, deer should be skinned and quartered ASAP. I’ve
eaten a lot of good deer meat. But I’ve eaten some really bad deer
meat, too. I’m only a self-trained butcher, but I process five or six
animals each fall, and have been doing so for a decade or more.
I’m no
Scott Leysath, either, but my wife and I do eat venison in some form two or three meals per week, year-round. I think we eat pretty good.
Some things consistently make venison really tasty. And some things
will ruin the flavor, too. Here are a dozen of the worst offenders.
1. Poor Field Care
In the real world of hunting, things happen. We all make bad shots on
occasion. And while we know not to “push” a deer that’s been hit
marginally, realize that the longer it takes for the animal to die and
the farther it runs, the more adrenaline and lactic acid builds up in
the animal’s system and muscles. Ever had a glass of good-tasting acid? I
didn’t think so.
The faster a deer hits the ground and can be field-dressed, the
better the meat will be. Some of the best-tasting deer I’ve ever had
have been shot in the head with a gun. The animal is killed instantly,
and the meat is uncontaminated by blood and entrails from the chest
cavity. That said, head shots are risky. The lungs remain the best place
to aim.
2. Failure to Cool Quickly
Internal bacteria rapidly takes over after death, expelling gases and
causing the animal to bloat. That’s the first step in decomposition.
This process is accelerated in warm weather. Learn
how to field dress a deer, and get to it ASAP. Removing those organs is the first step in cooling the animal down.
On a cold night—in the mid-30s or lower—a deer can be left hanging
skin-on overnight. In especially cold weather, some hunters like to age a
deer in such a manner for several days (more on aging in a bit). I live
in a warm climate, and most of the deer I shoot in a season’s time are
during early bow season, so I don’t have that luxury. When I find my
deer and get it field-dressed, I plan on having it skinned, quartered
and on ice within the hour.
3. Shot the Wrong Deer
Modern deer hunters are in tune with deer herd management. We’ve
learned of practices that contribute to the health of a herd, including
which deer to shoot. Given the chance, most of us want to shoot a mature
buck with big antlers. Me included.
Old bucks are perfectly edible, but rarely the best. Muscles get
tougher with use and stringy with age. An old buck that’s spent a full
autumn fighting, rubbing, scraping and chasing does will be lean. Expect
chewy steaks. Same thing goes for an old doe that’s burned all her
summertime calories producing milk to nurse fawns. I usually make
hamburger, sausage and jerky out of such animals.
For steaks, you can’t beat a young, crop-fed deer. Deer that spend a
summer munching on corn and soybeans have an easier life—and more
fattening food sources—than those that spend a lifetime wandering the
big timber in search of scattered mast and browse.
The tastiest venison I’ve ever eaten came from a 1
½-year-old fork horn shot through the neck near a picked corn field
during early bow season.
That young deer had nothing to do all summer except get fat. Am I
saying to forgo everything the QDMA is teaching and whack every young
buck that walks by? No. But I am saying if a deer for the freezer is
your goal, young bucks from the early season are usually good eating,
and have more meat than does to boot. If you want to shoot one and it’s
legal, go for it. You don’t owe anyone an apology.
Field dressing is the first step in cooling a deer down. Get to it fast, especially if the weather is warm.
4. Failure to Age / Purge
I’ve been told that aging venison on ice is a mistake, but I don’t
buy it. The mercury rises above 50 degrees on most days of deer season
in my area. That’s too warm to let a deer hang, so icing them down is my
only option. I line the bottom of a cooler with a layer of ice, add my
deer quarters on top of that, and then cover them with more ice.
I keep the cooler in the shade with the drain plug open and on a
downhill incline. That’s very important. The idea is to let the ice
slowly melt and drain from the cooler. This not only keeps the meat
cold, but purges an amazing amount of blood from it. Do this for at
least two days, checking the ice a couple times per day in especially
warm weather. (Note: if you do this without a drain plug, you’ll get the
opposite effect; deer quarters that are essentially marinated in
bloody, dirty water. Does that sound tasty? Didn’t think so.)
5. Dirty Knives and Power Saws
A deer’s legs are held together just like yours: with ball-and-socket
joints and connective tissue. Learn where these are, and you can cut an
entire skinned deer apart within minutes with a good pocket knife.
Laying into a deer’s legs and spine with a power saw puts bone marrow,
bone fragments and whatever mess was on the saw blade into your venison.
Would you season your steak with bone fragments and wood shavings?
Didn’t think so.
I keep three sharp knives handy when I’m cleaning a deer. One is for
field-dressing. This one will be a stout knife with a drop point for
prying through bone. Another is for skinning. Though a skinning blade
with a gut hook is nice to have, I’ve been using a long-bladed fillet
knife the last couple seasons, and it works beautifully. These knives
can be honed to a razor’s edge and quickly re-sharpened. Other than
quickly dulling a knife’s edge by slicing through hair, skinning is not
taxing on a knife’s blade, so a flexible fillet knife works fine.
Finally, I swap over to another knife—again, with a heavier blade—for my
quartering. The point to take from all this is to keep your knives
separate so you reduce contamination of the meat with blood and hair.
6. Poor Trimming
Unlike beef fat, deer fat does not taste good. Neither does the
sinew, membranes and other connective tissues holding the various muscle
groups together. Venison, whether destined for steaks or hamburger,
should be trimmed free of anything that’s not rich, red meat.
For great deer burger, try blending the ground venison with a little cheap bacon.
7. Burger is Too Lean
Ironically, because fat needs to be trimmed away for the best flavor,
venison often becomes too lean
for hamburger purposes. Patties made for grilled double cheeseburgers
often fall apart soon after hitting the hot grate. The solution is to
add some fat, either beef or pork, when you’re grinding venison. We use
cheap bacon, mixed at a rate of 5:1 (5 pounds of venison per pound of
bacon). It makes our patties stick together, and the bacon adds a great
flavor.
8. Used a Cut-Rate Processor
Some commercial deer processors do a great job. But some do not. I
once took a deer to a processor, filled out my paperwork and watched him
disappear to the freezer room. He weighed my animal and returned with a
corresponding amount of packaged, frozen venison. “We mix all our meat
together and package a lot of burger at once,” he said.
For all I knew, the deer I was getting could’ve been gut-shot, left
to hang in 90-degree heat, and then dragged along a black-top road en
route to the processor. No thanks. That was the last deer I ever took to
a processor. Insist on getting your own deer back when you have
processing work done. If that’s not possible, I’d advise doing business
elsewhere.
9. Marinade Problems
“First, soak for 48 hours in Italian dressing …”
It’s enough to make a venison-lover cringe.
Look, Italian dressing and BBQ sauce taste fine, but
you’d better be a ravenous fan of them if you’re using them to soak
venison steaks for two days. At the end of those two days, your steaks
will taste just like … Italian dressing or BBQ sauce.
There’s nothing wrong with a little splash of flavor enhancement, but
try lighter flavors that complement, rather than mask, the flavor of
deer meat, and keep the marinade time short. My usual maximum is three
or four hours. A favorite marinade for grilled venison steaks is a
mixture of olive oil, a spoonful of balsamic vinegar, a spoonful of
Worcestershire sauce, some minced garlic (with the juice), a squirt of
mustard and salt and pepper to taste.
Good
venison needs to age a few days. One good way to age is in a cooler of
ice with a drain plug open and pointed down-hill. This purges blood from
the meat.
10. Cooked Too Cool, for Too Long
Venison recipes, especially grilled recipes, often call for removing
the meat after a couple minutes per side. For many, the result of that
is, “this is raw and gross.” And so they place it back on the grill.
After a while, it turns gray, chewy, dry … and still gross.
Grilled venison is best when eaten with a medium-rare interior, but
the outside needs to be cooked. In order to do that, your grill needs to
be hot enough to instantly sear the meat surface and lock in those
flavors and juices. Flip your venison steaks one time. If you don’t have
nice grill marks after three or four minutes, the grate isn’t hot
enough.
11. Improper Packaging and Freezing
Freezer burn doesn’t help the flavor of ice cream or anything else,
deer meat included. Modern vacuum packaging systems are handy and save
on space, but I’ve used some that resulted in freezer-burned meat after a
few months. If you’re buying a
vacuum-sealing unit, get a good one.
We package our deer the old-fashioned way, first wrapping our portion
in clear plastic wrap, and then covering that with heavy-duty freezer
paper. Each package is clearly labeled, not only so we know what cut of
meat is inside and when it was killed, but also which deer it came from.
If one animal proves especially tough, we know to use that meat for
slow-cooking recipes.
12. Getting too Fancy
There’s no big mystery or secret to cooking venison. Treat it as you
would treat very lean beef, and you’ll get outstanding results day in
and out. We substitute deer burger for beef hamburger in virtually
everything—chili, tacos, sloppy Joe’s, burgers on the grill, spaghetti
and who knows what else. We never plan on a “wild game night” at the
house. We just plan to cook dinner, and that usually means wild game by
default.
(Editor's Note: This Retro Realtree article was originally published in October of 2012)
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